Monday, August 1, 2011

Overview

Why we went to Turkey
We are fortunate to travel and for me, part of the joy of travel is sharing our adventures with our family and friends. For this trip, other reasons included: friends and colleagues have loved visiting Turkey and recommended it; my husband, Hoyt L. Edge, Professor of Philosophy, teaches ancient humanities from time to time and Turkey is critical to that topic.  In addition, Rollins College, where Hoyt teaches, encourages faculty (and provides some funds) to travel abroad in an effort to gain an understanding of other cultures and bring home insights for students.

My name is Charlene Lamy Edge, and writing is about the best way for me to process and find meaning in my experiences, so I can't help but scribble about our travels. I hope something in this blog is of interest to you.

Reading this blog
On the mid-upper right side of the main blog page, under Blog Archive, look for links to Parts I through IV of this blog story.

World Heritage Sites Tour

What's a country like Turkey doing in a place like this?
Once known as Asia Minor, Turkey is huge peninsula about one and a half times the size of Texas, but to me is far more interesting. Texans, don’t take that personally, you can’t help it. Turkey extends horizontally into the waters around it.  To the north, Turkey faces the Black Sea; several countries including Iran are to the east; Iraq to the southeast; Syria to the south (we were about 18 miles from the border when we visited Harran, which was first inhabited in the 3rd millennium BCE.) To the west, The Mediterranean Sea sparkles and holds histories of invaders/visitors sailing to ports like famous Ephesus.


Civilizations criss-crossed, conquered, and cultivated Turkey
There are temples, mosques, churches and houses from so many eras and in so many stages of ruination or the lack thereof that it would take a thousand pots of Turkish coffee to keep me awake to keep them straight: Paleolithic era, Neolithic, Early Bronze, Assyrian trading colonies, Hittite, Phrygian, Urartian, Greek, Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine, Seljuk and Ottoman periods. Whew.

Beyond belief - MANY heritage sites
Our trip's goal was to visit Turkey's many World Heritage Sites. These sites are valuable in preserving humankind's history. "The idea of creating an international movement for protecting heritage emerged after World War I. The 1972 Convention concerning the Protection of the World Cultural and Natural Heritage developed from the merging of two separate movements: the first focusing on the preservation of cultural sites, and the other dealing with the conservation of nature." http://whc.unesco.org/en/convention

Education Vacation = Be ready to push yourself
This kind of tour demands lots of walking, climbing, and on some days, an average of five hours drive time because Turkey is so vast and sites are all over the place.  To visit most of these places, we signed up with Pasha Tours for a two-week road trip, leaving the driving to them (the last week of our trip we drove by ourselves). 

This was an educational tour, not a vacation escape, so we set our expectations accordingly.  Relaxing time was scant, but all meals were included with Pasha, as well as site and museum fees. Before we left home, we scheduled personal down time before and after the Pasha part of our 27-day long trip. I can't complain: I didn't have to cook for a month!

World heritage sites in Turkey

The following are those we visited:
The following are on a tentative list:
We also spent time in several places NOT on the list, like Amasya and Sivas.

Weather
We left the USA on May 23 and were in Turkey from May 24 through June 19. That is a great time of year to go – hot but not unbearable, with little rain.  When it did downpour in Istanbul, no worries. Shop keepers immediately hauled out racks of umbrellas for sale.

Seeing the world

A word about traveling
In a recent issue of our local paper, The Orlando Sentinel, a colleague of Hoyt’s, another frequent flier named Michael M. Gunter, Jr., wrote an article, “Show Your Patriotism by Seeing the World.”  I especially liked his admonition, “Treat travel abroad as an opportunity to discredit the arrogant and obnoxious American stereotype, to engage in polite debate about U.S. foreign policy and gain understanding of how we fit into the grander scheme of the world.” 

We try and keep those things in mind, although on this trip, due to our inability to speak Turkish, we had few chances to talk politics, except for English conversations with our guest house host in Istanbul at the start of the trip and later with our Pasha guide.  We did, however, have an interesting evening of haggling and laughing with a carpet seller in Bergama who, after a lively couple of hours stuttering broken English, sold us a Turkish carpet. More on that in Part III.

So we're thankful for the privilege to travel, especially given the current global economic mess. I hope that in sharing our adventures here we can add to your appreciation of the world, too.

Click the Part of the story you want to read. Enjoy!

Part I – Istanbul Excursions. My husband, Hoyt and I explored Istanbul, just the two of us. Sites included the Blue Mosque, Aya Sophia, the Topkapi Palace, The Grand Bazaar, The Bosphorus Strait, and the mosaic/fresco-filled Chora Church.

Part II From Ankara to Antalya. After four days of “honeymooning in Istanbul,” we took an overnight train to Ankara (the capital) and for about two weeks traveled with Pasha Tours, with nearly every night spent in a different town.  We shared a van with three other travelers, a Turkish guide and a driver. I’ll tell you about some of our stops: Ankara, Safronbolu, Amasya, Cappadocia, Sivas, Divrigi, Nemrut Dag, Urfa, Harran, Gobekli Tepe, Konya, Pammukale, Aphrodisias, and Atalya.

Part III – The Tourquise Coast.  On June 11 in Antalya, we left the group, rented a car and Hoyt drove us across the southwest and up the west coast to visit Myra, Letoon, Xanthos, Sidman, Fethye, Didyma, Miletus, Didyma, Miletus (where philosophy was born more or less), Prien, Selcuk, Ephesus, Pergamon.

Part IV - Troy, Gallipoli and Homeward Bound.  Just so you know, yes, Troy really is a real place where a real war happened, not a fictional town in Homer's Illiad. Amazing, to say the least. Gallipoli, the site of a more recent war, was our last stop at the park/monument to WWI heroes.

We returned to the USA on June 20, happy as always to be home again. And trying to come to more understanding of "how we fit into the grander scheme of the world." 

"Secretly we spoke, that wise one and me.
I said, 'Tell me the secrets of the world.'
He said, 'Sssh, let silence tell you the secrets of the world.'"

~ Rumi, mystic poet and founder of the Whirling Dirvishes.
His burial place is in Konya, Turkey

Part I of IV: Istanbul excursions

Email home from Istanbul
Sat. 5:20 pm, May 28, 2011
Istanbul, Turkey
Pop. about 17 million

Hi family & friends,

Greetings from the future (7 hours ahead of E.S.T.). We are at The Terrace Guesthouse, in the old part of Istanbul, only blocks away from the famous Blue Mosque and its older counterpart (by 1,000 yrs) facing it: Aya Sofya, which was originally built as a church, then later converted into a mosque.

Hoyt & I have spent 4 wonderful days in this fabuous ancient city a.k.a. Byzantium then Constantinople. We've been awed by the beauty of mosques, mosaics, markets, and many friendly Turks and tourists, one even from St. Petersburg, Florida who saw Hoyt's cap with the Orlando Magic emblem on it.

Weather: sunny for two days, rainy and overcast yesterday and today.

Next: Tonight we leave on a night train to Ankara, the capital, to join a Pasha Tours group of three more people until June 11 when we break away, rent a car, and drive up the western coast.

Much love to you all,
Charlene & Hoyt

For some good info on Turkey visit: http://worldfacts.us/Turkey.htm

Istanbul - A mosaic of a city on seven hills

This city is a mosaic of famous mosques, churches, bazaars, a Sultan's palace, Turkish coffee cafes, neighborhood cats, carpet sellers and evidences of its extremely long history at every turn in the cobbled streets, especially in the Old Town - a fascinating pattern of old and new. Countless web sites cover it, so I'll try and give you something different - from our eyes to yours. 

Charlene L. Edge breakfasting on the roof of The Terrace Guest House
with Blue Mosque in background (more on Blue Mosque below)
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]
Where we stayed in Istanbul
If you don't mind climbing narrow, spiral staircases up a few flights with your suitcases, we highly recommend The Terrace Guest House. One of our friends who had stayed there told us about it and we're GLAD he did. Tucked in the Old Town called called Sultanahmet, this house was cozy (pretty small) but clean, and on a trip like this what counts is location, location, location. We could walk nearly everywhere we wanted to go.

Hoyt L. Edge outside the guesthouse in the Old Town.
The owner is a peach, the rooms clean, the breakfast more than generous.
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]
Around the block and directly behind our guesthouse, we had two deeelicious dinners at the Albura Kathisma Cafe/Restaurant, one including lamb another with eggplant. From the street, we could smell the spices and meals simmering inside, which easily lured us to a table.  We love that lavash!

Lavash bread at Albura Kathisma Cafe, Istanbul, Turkey
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]
Turns out that in the back of the cafe there was an underground shortcut to return the other side of the block where our guesthouse was.  The waiter pointed to steep stairs that led down to amazing old Roman ruins of a palace called Magnaura, and so we decended into the earth, not sure of what lay ahead. The site is directly underneath modern Istanbul city streets and hotels resting on the earth above it.  Sort of spooky down there - cold, damp, and musty smelling.  After we strolled through the ruins, we climbed out the other end, and found ourselves at the outdoor entrance/exit with the site's sign a few steps from the street!

Magnaura Palace Ruins

Charlene Edge roams underground Roman Magnaura Palace Ruins
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]
 
Stairs out of the Magnaura Palace ruins
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]

Now they tell us! After we go through from the cafe, the sign is at the other entrance.
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]
Aya Sophia (Turkish name)
Called the "Haghia Sofia" in Greek and the "Church of the Divine Wisdom" in English.  We called it lovely.

Aya Sofya by night
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]
Today a museum, this structure was originally built as a Byzantine church in 537 AD and about a thousand years later was converted into a mosque in 1453.  It houses many frescos on walls depicting Jesus, saints, and emporors, and floors and ceilings covered in mosaic tiles.
Aya Sofya by day
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]

Inside the Aya Sofya
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]
 
Inside the Aya Sofya
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]
 
Hoyt L. Edge inside Aya Sophia
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]

The nearby Basilica Cistern is gigantic, with rows and rows of columns holding up the ceiling. Built to supply the city with water, it is now a museum sparkling with colored lights.


Inside nearby Basilica cistern. Column with Medusa's upturned head. No one knows why it's like this.
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]

The Grand Bazaar
It's more than grand, it is a roofed maze with about 4,000 shops and several kilometers of aisles. It includes shops for jewelry, carpets, pottery, luggage, clothes, you name it; plus banks, mosques, police stations, and restuarants. 

Warning: Leave a trail of bread crumbs if you ever expect to escape. 

Grand Bazaar entrance, Charlene L. Edge leaving a trail of bread crumbs.
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]
Charlene L. Edge inside Istanbul's Grand Bazarr
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]
 
Charlene L. Edge in front of Isnik Works, a pottery and tile shop
Grand Bazaar of Istanbul
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]
The Spice Market
A friend recommended we eat at the famous Pandeli Restaurant in the nearby Spice Market and we found the food delicious!  The market, named for the spices imported from Egypt and elsewhere, is a feast of color.

Spices in an appropriate market: The Spice Bazaar, a.k.a. The Egyptian Market
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]

Turkish delight - and yummy
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]

Spice of a different nature
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]

The evil eye is to protect you from evil. Oh, if it were only that simple!
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]
Blue Mosque
Opposite the Aya Sofya and not far from the Bazaar, stands the Sultan Ahmet Camii ("camii" means "mosque" in Turkish). This mosque is commonly known as the Blue Mosque because of its gazillion blue tiles.  Built in the early 1600s by Sultan Ahmet's workers to rival the Aya Sofya, it has 260 windows and the central prayer space is huge.  Muslims still use it today, especially on Fridays, their day of prayer.

Blue Mosque from our Terrace Guest House roof
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]
 
Courtyard of Blue Mosque
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]

Inside the Blue Mosque
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]
 
Prayer space in the Blue Mosque
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]
Topkapi Palace
The Lonely Planet for Turkey tells us this palatial palace "is the subject of more colorful stories than most of the world's royal residence's put together." The extensive buildings and gardens are the result of building and reconstruction efforts since the mid 15th century.

Model of Topkapi Palace inside Palace grounds.
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]
Seeing the palace means spending a few hours there.  We rented Audio Tour recorders, which really helped us understand what we were experiencing.  The Palace includes the Sultan's living quarters and rooms for conducting the business of the empire. It's worth the extra ticket to see the Harem, which isn't what you think. It was the "imperial family quarters, and every detail of Harem life was governed by tradition, obligation, and ceremony. The word 'harem' literally means 'private'" (Lonely Planet).  I learned that the Sultan could have four legitimate wives, the max allowed by Islamic law.  Most American men think one is more than enough!  The "slave girls" that the Sultan could choose from could not be of the Islamic faith so they were imported or were gifts from other rulers.
Charlene L. Edge at Topkapi gates
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]
Several interesting characters have filled the Sultan's slippers over the centuries from 1453 until 1839: "Selim the Sot, who drowned after drinking too much champagne; Ibrahim the Mad, who lost his reason after being imprisoned for 22 years by his brother Murat IV; and the malevolent Roxelana, a former concubine who became the powerful consort of Suleyman the Magnificent." (Lonely Planet)

Wow.  It was another world in there...

Topkapi Palace fountain. Istanbul, Turkey
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]


Entrance yard to Topkapi Palace, Istanbul, Turkey
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]
 
For an extra charge, we went through the Palace's Treasury, but no photos are allowed inside because of its amazing works of art and teasures like jewel-encrusted swords, gold and diamond candlesticks, and most notably, the Spoonmaker's Diamond, which is an 86-carat teardrop stone making it the 5th largest diamond in the world (Lonely Planet). As we progressed through palace gates, courtyards, elegantly carved doorframes and tiled hallways, I began to think I could get used to this palace overlooking the Bosphorus!

Charlene L. Edge - Topkapi Palace railing overlooking Bosphorus Sea
Istanbul, Turkey
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]

Topkapi Palace Music Room
Istanbul, Turkey
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]

Mosque inside Topkapi Palace complex
Istanbul, Turkey
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]

Wall tile in Topkapi Palace, Istanbul, Turkey
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]

Corridor in Topkapi Palace, Istanbul, Turkey
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]

Charlene L. Edge in front of gate in Topkapi Palace
Istanbul, Turkey
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]

Wall tiles in Harem of Topkapi Palace
Istanbul, Turkey
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]

Harem courtyard in Topkapi Palace
Istanbul, Turkey
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]
Istanbul Archeological Museum
After our jaw-dropping visit to the Palace, we had tea in the gift shop before strolling down the hill to this museum to see more great treasures from Istanbul's surroundings, including sarcophagi, sculptures, mosaic floors and frescos.  

Hoyt L. Edge in gateway to Istanbul Archeological Museums
Near Topkapi Palace
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]
 Unexpectedly...on one floor were tigers, and peacocks, and boars, oh my!
  
Mosaic floor preserved in Istanbul Archeological Museum
[Photo property of Hoyt Edge]

Chora Church a.k.a. Kariye Muzesi (pronounced Kora)
It takes a taxi ride out to the Western District, but we're glad we didn't miss seeing this gem of a church. It is a mosaic/fresco-laden Byzantine church in the hills outside Istanbul.  Again, we sought it out due to friends' recommendations.  Built in the 11th century A.D., it has two special dome ceilings, one depicting the life of Mary, the other Jesus. Even the outside was charming, with its crumbling walls and intricate archetecture. It was peaceful there, away from the hustle and bustle of more heavily touristed areas in town.

We oogled the inside walls and ceilings for about an hour, straining our necks looking up at the colorful mosaic art, shining with gold everywhere. Several side chapels are filled with storyboard mosaics and frescos, too. At one time, the building served as a monastery, at another, a mosque. For extensive descriptions and photos, visit the museums' web site: http://www.choramuseum.com/

Outside Chora Church
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]
 
Entrance to Chora Church outside Istanbul, Turkey
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]
  
Inside Chora Church
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]
 
Ceiling depicting Jesus and his ancestors
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]
I saw no church mice. Must be due to this little guy's diligent efforts. Oh no...he's too busy craining his neck like the rest of us!

Chora Church cat
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]
  
Inside Chora Church. Charlene L. Edge on right.
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]
 
Through doorway into basilica - Chora Church
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]
Okay, now one last Istanbul adventure: a Bosphorus Strait boatride. Then I'll share a few extraneous glances around Istanbul before beginning Part II: Pasha Tour sojourn into central, eastern, and southern Turkey.

Bosphorus Cruise
The Bosphorus Strait is considered the major transportation venue in Istanbul.  It connects the Sea of Marmara with the Black Sea, so Europe is on one side, Asia on the other.  It cuts Istanbul into two parts, one on each continent. Yes, Istanbul is certainly a crossroads of cultures even today.


The dock where you hop on a cruise boat is busy with food vendors and people waiting to catch a ferry boat either to or from work or a cruise boat to sightsee. People-watching was marvelous, even better than in airports.

Hey mom! Who are those tourists with cameras?
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]

A Japanese "Rick Steves" taping a show on the boat dock
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]

The daily hustle and bustle of life
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]

The boat. We climbed to the top deck for a good view.
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]

We froze on the top deck  for the good view!
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]

From the boat, you can see several significant buildings along the waterfront, including a fort called, Rumeli Citadel.  "Built in first half of 1400s, this is the large medieval castle under the Second Bosphorus Bridge. Its former name Boğazkesen (Turkish)/Laimokopia (Greek) means both "strait-blocker" and "throat-cutter" in both languages and denotes the reason of its building—to shut the supply routes from the Black Sea in the north into the slowly falling apart Byzantine Empire through the Bosphorus." http://wikitravel.org/en/Istanbul/Bosphorus

Rumeli Citadel
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]

A few last glimpses of Istanbul

 
Cats are carpet sellers, too.
Istanbul, Turkey
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]

Street in Istanbul, Turkey
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]
Oops...is this a restaurant or what?
Istanbul, Turkey
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]

Cleaning up Istanbul, Turkey
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]
 
Hoyt and Charlene Edge's tired feet
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]
 
Charlene L. Edge in Istanbul train station, leaving for Ankara, Turkey
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]

Bye, bye Istanbul...we loved meeting you!
[Photo property of Hoyt L. Edge]
On the top right side of the page, click Part II of IV: Ankara to Antalya